
It's important one again to make sure that your marks are lined-up. By this point, I don't need to use the pin anymore, I can just eyeball it. But do what works for you. You can see my B, the light piece, is on top. In the book, it says to start at the dot, but on this piece, there's no reason I can fathom to do so, so I started at the edge and lowered my stitch length to 1.8 or 1.6 to make it a little more secure.
 It's important to remember that unlike square or rectangle piecing, you can't just line these seams up by snugging them together.  The seams make a sort of X as one piece is angled one way, and the other, the opposit, nonetheless, we want them to match.  The best way to do this is by feel, I think. You want the cross of the X to be right at the quarter inch.  In the picture above, you can barely see the yellow tidbit, but you can see that the two seams will cross right at 1/4 inch.  I will say that sometimes you really have to manhandle your fabric to get it to work.   I don't know if my way of piecing this curve is the "right" way, or what the quilt police would say, but it works pretty well for me, so I'll pass it on, but I encourage you to do what works for you.
It's important to remember that unlike square or rectangle piecing, you can't just line these seams up by snugging them together.  The seams make a sort of X as one piece is angled one way, and the other, the opposit, nonetheless, we want them to match.  The best way to do this is by feel, I think. You want the cross of the X to be right at the quarter inch.  In the picture above, you can barely see the yellow tidbit, but you can see that the two seams will cross right at 1/4 inch.  I will say that sometimes you really have to manhandle your fabric to get it to work.   I don't know if my way of piecing this curve is the "right" way, or what the quilt police would say, but it works pretty well for me, so I'll pass it on, but I encourage you to do what works for you.  You can see above that I am stretching the hell out of my fabric.  Those are very curved pieces but I stretch both top and bottom until they're practically straight.  I don't stretch the inner part as much because the curve is subtle, and easy to accommodate with less drastic means, but out toward the edge, the curves are deep and can be unwieldy using some more traditional method, such as pinning.  The book also says to pin at every seam intersection, but I like my "find the crux of the X" method better.
You can see above that I am stretching the hell out of my fabric.  Those are very curved pieces but I stretch both top and bottom until they're practically straight.  I don't stretch the inner part as much because the curve is subtle, and easy to accommodate with less drastic means, but out toward the edge, the curves are deep and can be unwieldy using some more traditional method, such as pinning.  The book also says to pin at every seam intersection, but I like my "find the crux of the X" method better.The only seam that doesn't really cross in an X is the very last one. You can snug that one just like you'd snug the seams of a four patch to get sharp points. Like below:
 Do not connect all your arcs together. Just connect them into pairs with one B arc, and one C arc.
Do not connect all your arcs together. Just connect them into pairs with one B arc, and one C arc.
If you stitched right through your X crosses, your seams should be nice and lined up.
 The next step is to connect your arc pairs to the center of the dahlia that we made earlier.  You will only sew one side of the arc's bottom to the left side of the opening in the center piece.
The next step is to connect your arc pairs to the center of the dahlia that we made earlier.  You will only sew one side of the arc's bottom to the left side of the opening in the center piece. Here I've already attached the arc on the right, but you can see that the left-hand side I left open.  I also only sewed dot to dot when attaching that short segment.  Then moving counter-clockwise, I attach a second arc, as I show above.  Now, according to the instructions, you should have all your arcs flapping around the center before you connect them to one another, and that is the ideal, but for purposes of blogging, I went ahead and attached the two pairs that I sewed on.
Here I've already attached the arc on the right, but you can see that the left-hand side I left open.  I also only sewed dot to dot when attaching that short segment.  Then moving counter-clockwise, I attach a second arc, as I show above.  Now, according to the instructions, you should have all your arcs flapping around the center before you connect them to one another, and that is the ideal, but for purposes of blogging, I went ahead and attached the two pairs that I sewed on.You start at the dot on the back of an A piece, but other than that, it's just like connecting the arcs into pairs, except you have the center flopping around.
 This is the only stretch that's different from connecting your arcs.  Sew from the stitch line on the A piece (the orange wavy business in this picture) and then continue on like you did above.
This is the only stretch that's different from connecting your arcs.  Sew from the stitch line on the A piece (the orange wavy business in this picture) and then continue on like you did above.Continue counterclockwise around the whole center, and voila! You'll have a Dahlia. I'll do my best to get mine done this weekend and start with the process of putting it on the background, but I have two card tournaments this weekend (yeah, I'm a geek and I play a game called Magic, increasingly in tournaments, but originally just with my fiance). At least I'm not gambling. Anyway, I'll do my best to keep the Dahlia rolling.
Happy Quilting!
 























 The worst part of a dahlia is not the curved seams, trust me!  I really like Marti Michell's method and rotary cutter templates, but the cost of accuracy and ease in the rest of the quilts is the dreaded M-word (okay, maybe only I dread it, but it's marking).  You have to mark your pieces.  You really don't have to mark every single dot, but I do, because once I start, I get anal.  Her templates have holes in them.  I like to mark with something permanent.  Why, you ask?  Because my last dahlia, I marked with a very fine metallic pen that I had on hand so that it barely showed.  Well, it bled bright pink!  Joy, oh joy, so the white center of my other dahlia has pink streaks.  I also don't like watersoluble because I find it's hard to see on many colors, for one thing, and if I decide I want to Best Press or spray part while I'm working, POOF, all my marking is gone!  I prefer a very fine point Pigma Pen (made by Sakura, archival, used in scrapbooking a lot) and, to those of you who know me, I'm sure it comes as no surprise that I'm using lime green.  I don't like to use black, on the off chance I sew a seam incorrectly and it ends up on the front of the quilt, a dot of green is bearable, a dot of black will really stand out.  So I try to go with a color that won't show too much. This is ultimately what the markings look like:
The worst part of a dahlia is not the curved seams, trust me!  I really like Marti Michell's method and rotary cutter templates, but the cost of accuracy and ease in the rest of the quilts is the dreaded M-word (okay, maybe only I dread it, but it's marking).  You have to mark your pieces.  You really don't have to mark every single dot, but I do, because once I start, I get anal.  Her templates have holes in them.  I like to mark with something permanent.  Why, you ask?  Because my last dahlia, I marked with a very fine metallic pen that I had on hand so that it barely showed.  Well, it bled bright pink!  Joy, oh joy, so the white center of my other dahlia has pink streaks.  I also don't like watersoluble because I find it's hard to see on many colors, for one thing, and if I decide I want to Best Press or spray part while I'm working, POOF, all my marking is gone!  I prefer a very fine point Pigma Pen (made by Sakura, archival, used in scrapbooking a lot) and, to those of you who know me, I'm sure it comes as no surprise that I'm using lime green.  I don't like to use black, on the off chance I sew a seam incorrectly and it ends up on the front of the quilt, a dot of green is bearable, a dot of black will really stand out.  So I try to go with a color that won't show too much. This is ultimately what the markings look like:

 I will tell you now, that once I discovered Superior Threads, my life (and bank account) changed drastically. Yeah, I do have every color of Razzle Dazzle, and about half of the Halo colors :) Sparkle junkie, don't you forget it!
I will tell you now, that once I discovered Superior Threads, my life (and bank account) changed drastically. Yeah, I do have every color of Razzle Dazzle, and about half of the Halo colors :) Sparkle junkie, don't you forget it!
 I confess, I have a couple solid cottons in the same drawer (though some look solid that are very subtly variegated)...Alex Anderson's Masterpiece has some colors I couldn't live without.  Did I mention that I love Superior threads.  Also, in addition to this jumble, I have probably 30 more cones of vari cottons at work, by the long-arm, but I forgot my camera today, so you'll have to wait for my long-arm post.
I confess, I have a couple solid cottons in the same drawer (though some look solid that are very subtly variegated)...Alex Anderson's Masterpiece has some colors I couldn't live without.  Did I mention that I love Superior threads.  Also, in addition to this jumble, I have probably 30 more cones of vari cottons at work, by the long-arm, but I forgot my camera today, so you'll have to wait for my long-arm post.
 While I think the Bottom Line is fine, I actually prefer John Flynn's So Fine.  You can cram a ton on the bobbin, it comes in gorgeous colors, and I piece with it to.  I know some people are opposed, but the only plausible reason anyone has ever given me not to piece with high quality polyester, is that it might melt.  Well, dear quilters, my iron is set to "Fire & Brimstone" and I've never melted it, so I don't quite buy that business. Anyway, I love to use it in my bobbin when I quilt, and I really love it to piece because it's lint free, and my seams lay so flat. Which is why I need so many colors.  (Neutral shmeutral, I like to piece with thread that matches my quilt).
While I think the Bottom Line is fine, I actually prefer John Flynn's So Fine.  You can cram a ton on the bobbin, it comes in gorgeous colors, and I piece with it to.  I know some people are opposed, but the only plausible reason anyone has ever given me not to piece with high quality polyester, is that it might melt.  Well, dear quilters, my iron is set to "Fire & Brimstone" and I've never melted it, so I don't quite buy that business. Anyway, I love to use it in my bobbin when I quilt, and I really love it to piece because it's lint free, and my seams lay so flat. Which is why I need so many colors.  (Neutral shmeutral, I like to piece with thread that matches my quilt).





 My stash.  Piled on top of my cutting table and ironing board. I did put it away, but I couldn't resist having a picture of my beauties all neatly folded and delicious looking.
My stash.  Piled on top of my cutting table and ironing board. I did put it away, but I couldn't resist having a picture of my beauties all neatly folded and delicious looking.


